Korean Home Cooking

Classic and Modern Recipes

Abrams Books

Contents

BANCHAN VEGETABLES & SIDES

BAN CHAN 101

I grouped this chapter into seven major types of banchan: jorim, jeon, twigim, bokkeum, namul, muchim, and kimchi. If you're planning a meal, be sure to serve at least a few different styles. A note on serving banchan: Traditionally it is served as just a few bites in small bowls that can be easily passed around the table, then refilled as needed. You can serve it in one big platter or bowl, if you like; just make sure it is wide and flat, so you can reach across the table and grab the contents with your chopsticks. For the same reason, all banchan are cut into pieces you can easily maneuver with your chopsticks.

JORIM

Jorim means "stewed" or "braised," as in slow-cooking meats or vegetables in a reduced sauce as a way to preserve them and add flavor. The most common form is soy-braised, because soy sauce is salty, helping to further preserve whatever you jorim.

JEON

Jeon means something like "patty" — these are soft, pan-fried things like savory pancakes and omelets.

TWIGIM

Deep-fried and crunchy.

BOKKEUM

Stir-fried.

NAMUL

This is light vegetable banchan — namul basically means "seasoned greens." These are also often best mixed by hand.

MUCHIM

Muchim is both banchan and a technique. The word roughly means "to toss things with your hands," and it's a key component of sohn mat, or "taste of the hand," because you can feel when things are seasoned to your liking.

KIMCHI

Kimchi — basically salted and fermented vegetables — is the national dish of Korea, the thing everyone knows about the country, and it really takes center stage in our cuisine.

Kimchi is the king of banchan, an all-purpose condiment, a seasoning, a side, a topping, and a way to preserve foods and make them even healthier thanks to real-deal lacto-fermentation.

UNESCO has even declared kimjang — the communal act of making kimchi with your village and family in the fall so that everyone has enough through winter — an "intangible cultural property." My father used to say kimchi ran in his veins, and I agree: If I don't have kimchi for a while, I feel unwell. He also used to say, "If you don't have kimchi on the table, you're not eating well."

YUN-GEUN JORIM

GLAZED LOTUS ROOT

Jorim

(Braised)

Though we call this vegetable lotus root, technically what we're eating is the lotus rhizome, or the semi-hollow, crunchy stems of the lotus flower. (You've seen their beautiful pink-white blooms among the lily pads in tropical ponds.) The stems, which are similar in feel to water chestnuts, grow underwater in connected series of orange-pink pods. You peel the skin and slice the off-white flesh into lacy coins with a distinctive hole-y appearance. Here they are braised until tender, but still crunchy, and coated with a wonderful sticky, salty, sweet glaze.

NOTE: You should be able to find lotus "root" pods at almost any Asian grocery with a produce section. If you can't find them, good substitutes are burdock root or parsnips.

Serves 4

1 pound (455 g) lotus root (see Note)

2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/3 cup (75 ml) soy sauce

3 tablespoons packed brown sugar

1/3 cup (75 ml) brown rice syrup

1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

1 Peel the lotus root and slice it into ¼-inch (6 mm) rounds.

2 Put the lotus root slices in a medium saucepan with 4 cups (960 ml) water (add more if necessary to cover) and add the vinegar. Bring the liquid to a boil and let the lotus root simmer for 10 minutes.

3 Drain the lotus root and rinse it well in cold water until the slices feel cool to the touch. Shake off any excess water and let the slices drain in a colander over the sink or a bowl.

4 Clean and dry your saucepan and heat the oil over medium heat. Add the soy sauce, sugar, and 1 ½ cups (360 ml) water and let it come to a low boil, increasing the heat if necessary.

5 Add the cooked lotus root and cook them in the sugar-soy mixture, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has reduced by a little more than half, about 12 to 15 minutes.

6 Stir in the rice syrup and keep moving the lotus root slices in the pan so that every piece is glazed with the sauce. Let the lotus root cook until it is tender, about 20 minutes more. If the pot gets dry, add 1 or 2 tablespoons water.

7 Stir in the sesame seeds and serve hot, at room temperature, or chilled. This will keep in the refrigerator for about 1 week.

JANG JORIM

SOY-BRAISED BEEF

Think of this beef banchan — which is almost always eaten cold or at room temperature — as less like a traditional beef stew and more like a preserve or a pickle. This was traditionally a way to use up scraps of meat, cooking them down in a wonderful sauce both to make them more flavorful and to preserve them. You really want the liquid to reduce and become infused with the flavor of the meat and aromatics. While you could remove the seeds from all those chiles for less heat, I don't: They give the sauce a nice kick that really makes this dish. Korean green chiles are traditional, but I often use shishito peppers because I like the sweet, floral, slightly spicy notes, and they taste good stewed. You could eat this hot right after you make it as a meal, if you like, but traditionally this is served cold after an overnight rest to let the flavors develop.

NOTE: You don't need to remove all the fat from the beef, but if it's very thick in spots, trim it slightly.

Strain the meat and aromatics from the stock after the beef is done, and presto! You have concentrated Korean beef stock.

Serves 4 to 6

FOR THE BEEF AND STOCK

2 pounds (910 g) beef brisket or chuck, cut into 2-inch (5 cm) chunks (see Note)

½ medium yellow onion, quartered

2 scallions, cut into thirds

8 cloves garlic, halved

2-inch (5 cm/25 g) piece peeled fresh ginger, halved

FOR THE SEASONING

1/3 cup (75 ml) soy sauce

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

1 (4 inch/10 cm) square piece kombu seaweed

5 Korean green chiles or shishito peppers, sliced 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick

1 In a medium saucepan, cover the beef, onion, scallions, garlic, and ginger with 4 cups (960 ml) water and bring to a simmer. Partially cover the pot and let it cook for 1 ½ hours.

2 Add the soy sauce, sugar, rice wine vinegar, kombu, and chiles to the saucepan. Let everything simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes.

3 Let the pot cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight.

4 The next day, skim off the fat that has risen to the top and discard it. Then use your clean hands to shred the beef.

5 Serve cold or at room temperature by placing some of the shredded beef in a bowl with a little of the sauce, along with some of the chiles, onions, ginger, and scallions, if you like. It will last in the fridge for up to a week.

GAMJA JORIM

POTATO STEWED IN SOY SAUCE

There are as many ways to make this as there are Korean cooks — everyone tinkers with the ratio of soy sauce, water, and sweetness. This is my approach: neither too sweet nor too salty. I prefer to use Yukon gold potatoes because I love their buttery, creamy flavor and they hold their texture better than starchier russets, which are the traditional choice. You can really use any type of potato you have — the trick is just to soak and rinse them multiple times to get rid of excess starch. Though this will last for a day or two, it tastes best the day it is made, before refrigeration.

Serves 6 to 8

2 pounds (910 g) potatoes, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) chunks

3 tablespoons olive oil

½ large white onion, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons graulated sugar

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds

1 In a mixing bowl, cover the potatoes with cold water and let them soak for 30 minutes. Then rinse them three times in clean water and drain.

2 In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat, then add the onions and potatoes. Let them cook, stirring often, for about 1 minute, making sure the onions don't brown. Then stir in 1 cup (240 ml) water, the soy sauce, and the sugar.

3 Reduce the heat to medium and let everything simmer, stirring occasionally, until the water evaporates into a syrupy consistency.

4 After 10 minutes, add the honey and check the texture of the potatoes. If the water has evaporated but the potatoes are not cooked through, add ¼ cup (60 ml) water and let it come to a simmer, then turn off the heat. Taste for seasoning and add more soy sauce as needed.

5 Stir in the sesame oil and sesame seeds and let cool. Serve cold or at room temperature. This will last in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days.

DAE-PA JORIM

CHARRED BRAISED LEEKS

This is not a traditional Korean banchan, but I just knew it would taste good. And how could it not, with charred sweet leeks slow-cooked in anchovy stock and umami-rich doenjang? If you have a bunch of leeks on hand, this is the recipe for them.

These braised beauties are also perfect as a side dish to steak and mashed potatoes. After the leeks are cooked, reduce the braising liquid a little in the pan and swirl in some butter till it melts to make the most delicious steak sauce.

Serves 4

1 pound (455 g/about 2 large) leeks

1 tablespoon canola oil

Kosher salt

2 cups (480 ml) Master Anchovy Stock (page 228)

2 teaspoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon doenjang

1 Split the leeks lengthwise, trimming the root but leaving enough stem intact that the leeks still hold together. Immerse the leeks in cold running water and make sure they are clean of any grit or dirt between the leaves.

2 Pat the leeks very dry, discard the dark green tops, and cut the white and light green parts into 2 to 3 pieces.

3 In a skillet, heat the oil over high heat. When it begins to smoke, place the leeks in the pan cut side down and let them char and caramelize, turning so both sides are browned, about a minute and a half to 2 minutes per side. You may need to do this in batches. (You just want color here — no need to fully cook them.)

4 In a medium saucepan, bring the anchovy stock, soy sauce, and doenjang to a boil. Add the charred leeks, lower the heat, and let them cook for 8 minutes at a low simmer.

5 Serve the leeks hot, at room temperature, or even chilled with a little of the braising liquid. They will last in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.

DUBU JORIM

SOY-BRAISED TOFU

Banchan favorite among Koreans. You can boost the spiciness with even more gochugaru, or red chile flakes, if you are so inclined. The sweet spot for this dish is the day after you make it: It is even better after the tofu absorbs the sauce. The trick is not to make the dish too salty, because you're reducing the soy sauce: Don't add any more salt or soy sauce to taste until the sauce has finished cooking.

Serves 4

2 tablespoons soy sauce

½ teaspoon granulated sugar

½ teaspoon gochugaru (or more, if desired)

2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions

1 teaspoon minced garlic

3 tablespoons grapeseed or olive oil

1 pound (455 g) firm tofu, patted dry and sliced ½ inch (12 mm) thick

2 teaspoons sesame oil

Pinch shilgochu (Korean chile threads)

1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds, for garnish

1 In a small mixing bowl, combine the soy sauce, sugar, gochugaru, scallions, and garlic with ½ cup (120 ml) water. Set this aside while you brown the tofu.

2 In your largest skillet, heat half of the oil over medium heat. Cook the tofu slices flat in the pan, leaving a little bit of space in between, until both sides are lightly browned, about 3 minutes per side. Add the remaining oil when you flip the slices over.

3 Add the soy sauce mixture to the pan. Let it simmer over medium to medium-high heat, basting the tofu often with the liquid, until it reduces slightly, about 2 to 3 minutes.

4 Turn off the heat and stir in the sesame oil and the chile threads, and garnish with the sesame seeds. Serve hot, at room temperature, or chilled. This can be stored in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.

GYERAN JORIM

SOY-MARINATED SEVEN-MINUTE EGGS

These seven-minute eggs are beautiful — and yummy — on their own as banchan, or even a snack, sliced open to reveal the layers of color from their spicy-sweet soy marinade. They can also be added to Jang Jorim (page 22), Bibimbop (page 246), or any of the noodle dishes in this book. You want the chiles you use to be just a little hot, like Mexican chiles de árbol. You can make this with just soy sauce and water, which is traditional, but the brine here has more flavor and much less salt: I wanted to be able to eat the brine on rice or to braise vegetables or meats or tofu for another jorim. (A soy-only brine, by the way, will color the eggs in just 10 minutes.)

You don't have to use Korean soy sauce (ganjang) for the recipes in this book, but be sure to buy one that is "naturally brewed" rather than created in a lab and filled with caramel coloring or preservatives. With real brewed soy sauce, you taste the complexity of the soy, not just salt.

Makes 6 eggs

6 large eggs

¾ cup (180 ml) soy sauce

3 tablespoons mirin

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

3 dried chile peppers, such as chiles de árbol

5 cloves garlic, peeled

Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish (optional)

1 Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and prepare a large mixing bowl full of ice water.

2 Gently lower the eggs into the pot of boiling water and let them cook for 7 minutes. Remove them from the pot immediately to the bowl of ice water. Use your hand to gently crack each egg slightly against the side of the bowl as you add them.

3 When the eggs are cool enough to handle, peel them and set them aside in a clean bowl of cold water.

4 In a large saucepan, bring the soy sauce, mirin, rice wine vinegar, chile peppers, and garlic to a boil with 2 cups (480 ml) water. Lower the heat and let the liquid cook at a simmer for 5 minutes.

5 Turn off the heat and add the eggs to the pot. Remove them when the whites of the eggs have taken on color, about 1 hour, reserving the brine for another use, if desired. Alternatively, you can simply store them in the brine in the refrigerator overnight and then drain off the liquid the next day.

6 Serve the eggs chilled or at room temperature. Slice them into quarters or halves and dust their tops with the sesame seeds, if desired. They can be stored in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days.

GOGUMA JORIM

ROASTED SWEET POTATOES

Like braised leeks (see page 26), these are not a traditional Korean banchan — for starters there is very little roasting in our cooking, because historically we didn't have ovens, and the pickled jalapeños are obviously borrowed from Mexico. I also use the orange American-style sweet potatoes here, rather than traditional white ones like those found in Korea, as I think their sweetness just goes so well with kimchi. In truth, this banchan is a cross between a jorim, or braise, and a muchim, or tossed salad. Though this will last for a day or two, it tastes best at room temperature the day it is made, before refrigeration.

Serves 6 to 8

2 pounds (910 g) sweet potatoes

2 tablespoons olive oil

Kosher salt

¼ cup (60 ml) rice wine vinegar

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 teaspoons gochugaru

2 teaspoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon minced garlic

¾ cup (45 g) thinly sliced scallions

¼ cup (40 g) thinly sliced pickled jalapeños (optional)

1 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).

2 Scrub the sweet potatoes clean and cut them into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes.

3 In a mixing bowl, toss the sweet potato cubes with the olive oil and a pinch of salt, then lay them out on a baking sheet.

4 Roast the sweet potatoes for about 20 minutes, or until cooked through and crispy on the outside. Let cool.

5 In a mixing bowl, toss the cooled sweet potatoes with the vinegar, sesame oil, gochugaru, soy sauce, garlic, scallions, and pickled peppers, if using. Serve at room temperature or cold. It will last in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days.