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Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley Kindle Edition

by Brent Underwood (Author) Format: Kindle Edition

4.8 298 ratings

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NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER • A long-abandoned silver mine for sale sounded like an adventure too great to pass up, but it turned into much more—a calling, a community of millions, and hard-earned lessons about chasing impractical dreams.

“Inspiring and meditative—the story of man vs nature and man vs himself.”—Ryan Holiday, #1 New York Times bestselling author of The Obstacle is the Way

The siren song of Cerro Gordo, a desolate ghost town perched high above Death Valley, has seduced thousands since the 1800s, but few fell harder for it than Brent Underwood, who moved there in March of 2020, only to be immediately snowed in and trapped for weeks.

It had once been the largest silver mine in California. Over $500 million worth of ore was pulled from the miles of tunnels below the town. Butch Cassidy, Mark Twain, and other infamous characters of the American West were rumored to have stayed there. Newspapers reported a murder a week. But that was over 150 years ago.

Underwood bet his life savings—and his life—on this majestic, hardscrabble town that had broken its fair share of ambitious men and women. What followed were fires, floods, earthquakes, and perhaps strangest, fame. Ghost Town Living tells the story of a man against the elements, a forgotten historic place against the modern world, and a dream against all odds—one that has captured millions of followers around the world.

He came looking for a challenge different from the traditional 9-5 job but discovered something much more fulfilling—an undertaking that would call on all of himself and push him beyond what he knew he was capable of. In fact, to bring this abandoned town back to life, Brent had to learn a wealth of new self-sufficiency and problem-solving skills from many generous mentors.

Ghost Town Living is a thrilling read, but it’s also a call to action—to question our too-practical lives and instead seek adventure, build something original, redefine work, and embrace the unknown. It shows what it means to dedicate your life to something, to take a mighty swing at a crazy idea and, like the cardsharps who once haunted Cerro Gordo, go all in.

From the Publisher

Ryan Holiday says inspiring—the story of what we’re capable of when we do something we believe in

Robert Greene says a sublime story that blends little-known history with life lessons for all

Michael Easter says a testament to the fundamental human need to explore and make our mark

Thrilling tales of hard-earned lessons, impractical dreams, and embracing the unknown

Editorial Reviews

Review

“[Underwood’s story] continues to be of endless fascination.”—The New York Times

“It is . . . a romantic way of life. But it hasn’t been without its share of difficulties, worries, and setbacks.”—VICE

“Who knows? Maybe Cerro Gordo has one last boom in it after all.”—CBS News

“Inspiring and meditative—the story of man vs nature and man vs himself . . . and what we’re capable of when we throw ourselves into something that we believe in.”—Ryan Holiday, #1 New York Times bestselling author of The Obstacle is the Way

“Brent is the true soul of the town—the passion and love for this project is what brings it to life and why it has been able to impact so many people across the world.”—Sam Golbach of Sam and Colby

“From the very first page, Ghost Town Living captured my imagination. Underwood's odyssey is a stark departure from the familiar shores of achievement and modern comforts, plunging into a realm brimming with risk, raw adventure, and at times, sheer turmoil. This is a clarion call to delve into the depths of one's aspirations, to court the unknown, and to relentlessly chase the thrill of exploration.”—Molly Bloom, author of Molly’s Game

“Vivid and vibrant . . . a pleasure to read Underwood’s account of bringing history to life.”—Kirkus Reviews

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

Chapter 1

Pick Your Spot and Swing

It started as a pretty straightforward task.

William “Burro” Schmidt, a prospector, was tired of bringing his gold ore around a mountain, so he decided to go through it. In the spring of 1900, in the El Paso Mountains of the Mojave Desert, Schmidt began to chip away every day at solid granite using a pick, a shovel, and a four-pound hammer. When enough broken rock accumulated by his feet, he’d carry it out, first on his back in a canvas sack, and later in a wheelbarrow.

He’d come to the desert of California to save his life. Six of his siblings had died of tuberculosis back home in Rhode Island. Doctors, in their primitive ways then, had prescribed a hotter climate to avoid the same fate. Never one for half measures, Schmidt picked the hottest, driest desert in all of North America to stake his claim.

He reimagined himself as a prospector, a frugal one at that. He reinforced the toes of his boots with discarded tin cans and patched his tattered, greasy trousers with old flour sacks.

If you visit the tunnel, as I have, you begin to get a sense of the man, the compromises he was willing to make, and the ones he refused to. The first thing you notice about Schmidt’s tunnel is that the farther back you walk, the lower the ceilings become. At 6’2” I stand comfortably at the beginning of the tunnel. A few hundred yards in, I have to bend down to avoid hitting my head on the jagged, dust-covered rock all around me. I wondered if Schmidt, appearing in photos to be a bit shorter than myself, had done the math on how much time he could save by reducing the ceiling height a few inches. As I continued forward stooped over, like Alice in the shrinking room, I realized that a few hundred yards was actually three or four years of hard work. Maybe Schmidt had shrunk so much from hauling out tons of broken rock that he didn’t need the higher ceilings anymore.

It was dirty and dangerous work. From time to time, pieces of the mountain would fall on top of him. He’d dig himself out, and on more than one occasion, he’d limp toward a neighbor’s house to beg a ride to the nearest hospital to get patched up so he could return to digging.

On a good day he might make a foot of progress. On a bad day, maybe only an inch. He added dynamite and ore carts to the mix, but still progress was slow and imperceptible. Day in and day out Burro Schmidt woke up, grabbed his pick, and attacked the mountain. He knew what he had to do, every single day, for decades. There must have been comfort in that.

A photo of him from back then shows a man with a crooked back, pants filthy with grease, and a T-shirt ripped and full of holes. Still, evident even in a faded black and white photo, is the start of a smile. A look of pride in his sunken eyes.

In 1920, two decades into Schmidt’s digging of the tunnel, a road was built over the mountain, making his tunnel useless. He didn’t stop digging.

Maybe he thought he was close to finishing. Maybe he had come to love the rhythm and the purpose of the task so much that he could not bear to stop. In any case, he would spend another eighteen years digging the rest of the tunnel. Day in and day out, committed to finishing what he started.

As I go farther back in the mine, the light at the entrance reduces down to the size of a flashlight in the distance. I guessed that I’m halfway back. Halfway was nineteen years in Schmidt time. With nineteen more years ahead.

Then, on some otherwise uneventful day in 1938, having worked through the invention of the car and the television, through a world war, the Great Influenza, Prohibition, and the Great Depression, nearly four decades after he began, he saw sunlight at the other end of his tunnel.

His pickaxe, dulled and battered after nearly forty years of hammering away at the rock inside the mountain, clattered to stillness at his feet. A spark, a puff of dust. Newfound silence. He had chipped his way through a half mile of solid granite.

The exit was on the side of a steep cliff. There was a wash a few hundred feet below, but no practical place where the ore could have been transported from. Had he taken a wrong turn?

Had the whole thing been doomed from the start?

Schmidt was not the kind of man prone to existential questions. Soon after breaking through to the other side, he went back to the cabin he’d called home for forty years, packed up his few belongings, harnessed his two mules, Jack and Jenny, and left the place forever. No ore was ever sent through his tunnel.

But one man literally moved a mountain.

In my time at Cerro Gordo, I’ve come to view Burro Schmidt as the patron saint of the area and of my own undertaking. The tunnel that he dug, inch by inch through unyielding rock is not a shortcut to nowhere as the cynics would have it. It is, for me, the most direct path through all the doubts and fears that have haunted me since I took on the task of rebuilding and restoring this decaying ghost town in the middle of the desert. Burro Schmidt’s tunnel is a monument to what a person can achieve when they put all other considerations aside and simply, relentlessly, push on toward a single goal, heedless of the obstacles that stand in their way, taking on a seemingly impossible task, not for profit or glory, but for its own sake.

I know this because I am standing in the testament to it. Many less foolish things, things that serious people took seriously, where are they now? So much has happened in the century since he finished, but the work, a bewildering but undeniable demonstration of human will, is still there.

Call it projection, call it wishful thinking, call it my own need to justify the seemingly insane decisions I made that led me to Cerro Gordo, but I believe Burro Schmidt died a happy man.

“The struggle itself . . . is enough to fill a man’s heart,” Camus wrote in The Myth of Sisyphus. I choose to imagine Schmidt as Camus’s “happy Sisyphus.” I choose to believe that Schmidt found joy and purpose in a task that others would find to be useless drudgery.

I had no idea such a powerful sense of purpose could be wrung from rock.

I do now. My road to that epiphany had cut through a few mountains, too. It led me to Cerro Gordo, a town with over thirty miles of mines burrowed underneath.

It was two a.m. when my friend, half-jokingly, sent me a message that said, “This might be your next project, lol.” Included in the text was a link to an article: “Buy Your Own Town for Under a Million Dollars.”

I clicked on the link, as I’d clicked hundreds of real estate links in my past, but this one wormed deep inside my soul.

The article included an aerial shot of a collection of sun-bleached buildings against a desert sky, as if Georgia O’Keeffe had freelanced a real estate brochure. In the distance, behind the shacks and sand, magnificent mountains loomed, the sort of things that excite the heart of a guy who grew up in the relentlessly flat suburban swamps of Florida. The town in question covered over three hundred acres, nestled in the mountains between the Sierra Nevada and Death Valley National Park.

It had a name that, while a bit clumsy in English, sounded beautiful in Spanish: Cerro Gordo-Fat Hill. It had been an almost legendary boomtown, a mecca for silver and lead mining in the 1800s, and some of the vestiges of its storied past still survived: a church, a few cabins, a hotel named the American, which had once been considered fairly luxurious for the location and the era, and a nine-hundred-feet-deep shaft into the old silver, lead, and zinc mines.

And then, there was plenty the town didn’t have. No running water. No residents. No major stores for hours in any direction.

Despite the lyrical tone of the copy and the arresting beauty of photographs, it was clear that as fixer-uppers go, Cerro Gordo was in a league of its own, that it was the kind of impossible place that could break a man’s heart, his will, and his bank account.

In other words, it was perfect.

It was precisely the kind of challenge that I had been looking for.

My life at that point had devolved into a kind of numbing, comfortable, sameness. At the time that my friend sent me that listing, I was sprawled out on a worn and cozy couch on the front porch of a lovely, 150-year-old Victorian mansion in Austin, Texas, that I had turned into a profitable and successful hostel, hosting travelers from around the world.

History and hospitality were, at that point in my life, my stock and trade.

But I was ready for a change, for a new challenge.

I suppose, if I’m being honest, I’ve always been looking for the next thing to grab my attention.

But if I’m to be really honest, what I’ve been looking for is the one thing that will hold my attention, that will grab me and not let go, the way that tunnel through the mountains grabbed Burro Schmidt. I just didn’t know it at the time.

Product details

ASIN ‏ : ‎ B0C8MHHXL6
Publisher ‏ : ‎ Harmony (March 19, 2024)
Publication date ‏ : ‎ March 19, 2024
Language ‏ : ‎ English
File size ‏ : ‎ 12280 KB
Text-to-Speech ‏ : ‎ Enabled
Screen Reader ‏ : ‎ Supported
Enhanced typesetting ‏ : ‎ Enabled
X-Ray ‏ : ‎ Enabled
Word Wise ‏ : ‎ Enabled
Sticky notes ‏ : ‎ On Kindle Scribe
Print length ‏ : ‎ 273 pages

Best Sellers Rank: #111,298 in Kindle Store (See Top 100 in Kindle Store)
- #13 in Pacific U.S. Regional Travel
- #72 in Adventurer & Explorer Biographies
- #73 in Travel Biographies & Memoirs

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4.8 298 ratings

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Brent Underwood

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Brent Underwood is the owner of Cerro Gordo, an original boomtown silver mine, established in 1865. He is also the creator of "GhostTownLiving" where he chronicles his adventures on YouTube. Brent currently lives on the mountain above Death Valley with no running water, seven cats, six goats, and at least one ghost.

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DIYGuy

Epic Journey That Will Forever Change You

Reviewed in the United States on April 27, 2024

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Brent’s book details his Epic Journey Home to Cerro Gordo. It is a Journey that scares you, makes you laugh, made me cry near the end and give’s you hope in a world were it can be hard to find. His raw truth telling and the captivating narrative really bring his life, home and the community around Cerro Gordo to Life…and I know this is just the beginning of this wonderful revival story. Can’t wait for what comes next!

Like the Methuselah Great Basin Bristlecone pine tree…I hope the awe inspiring trials and tribulations of all who have called Cerro Gordo home are never forgotten and last for centuries to come…Thank you!

Reviewed in the United States on April 1, 2024

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As an Arizona resident and rabid old west fan ,I have been a follower of Brent's YouTube channel for the past 4+ years. In Arizona ,all of the towns worth being in at all were once, or still are, mining towns. The saga of a city boy from Fla.and then Texas trying his hand at "restoring" an old ghost town sounds pretty darn compelling to me.I am delighted that that young man decided to put pen to paper to document the trials,ambitions,devastating losses of this necessary,noble,insane project.His life has certainly been changed,as have ours who faithfully follow his exploits through the use of that cursed technology YouTube. The Creator is watching over this man's efforts in magnificent ways in the form of " angels" he has sent to help with this monumental task . Man does not live by bread alone........! Great read! Brent's writing has an easy grace and ability to make you feel,taste and even smell the town and his slice of paradise. The perfect caretaker for the town now on the list of "too tough to die".

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g-man

Excellent interpersonal storey of bringing back history to current.

Reviewed in the United States on April 12, 2024

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Brent Underwood impressed me with his concise and heart felt exploration into his past and future with the history of the old town of Cerro Gordo. Having watched some of his You Tube videos I was intrigued to buy his book. I can only say that Brent did a well written, articulate, and very personal account of his experience of capturing and preserving some of Americana in the South West. I highly recommend this book and quite frankly should be on the high school academic list of reading material.

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MKA

What a story! A must-read.

Reviewed in the United States on March 29, 2024

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This book in encouraging and fascinating and traumatic and fun and serious and holds your interest all at the same time. Totally fascinated with the towns that made the west, or as some say “ghost towns”, I was very excited to dive into this book. I waited anxiously for its release and then one day it showed up in my Kindle. I couldn’t put it down. Late nights and all day reads as I marched on through the details of life in Cerro Gordo, then and now. The description of the water crew was funny. The telling of the hotel was heartbreaking but slowly became victorious. Kind of like life. I highly recommend this book.

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Kelly

Book spurs questions for the reader

Reviewed in the United States on March 20, 2024

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Incredibly eloquent and well written, this book packed full of contemplations and observations will leave the reader with their own questions reflective of the experiences and struggles of the author. What are we meant to do? What gives meaning to our own lives? How do we leave a legacy that impacts future generations for the better? Upon completion of the book, I was left with these questions and a weight on my chest. Not a burdensome one- but a big ball of thoughts that will no doubt steer my decision making and live like a “little voice inside my head” for a long time. This book is pertinent and insightful and is a book to be read by people of all backgrounds, ages and creeds. It is a valuable addition to the literature of human history.

5 people found this helpful

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J. K. Campbell

Interesting,but questions remain

Reviewed in the United States on March 27, 2024

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I enjoyed the book, but recommend readers visit Underwood's YouTube channel with the same name first since the only view of him and the area around Cerro Gordo is the cover photo. The millennial author seems like a nice guy, but I have to wonder if his quixotic attempt to renovate the town will last as his present enthusiasm for the project begins to wane. Anyway, the book is worth visiting for his descriptions of the sere beauty of the surrounding mountains and desert, the dangers involved in his quest, the history of the town, and the unique individuals he has met. After finishing the book and viewing his videos the reader can make his or her own conclusion about whether the author is an inspirational adventurer, a humbug or a bit of both.

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Payce

Countering Jill's stupid review.

Reviewed in Canada on March 29, 2024

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Read the entire thing in one sitting. Beyond happy with how well written it was. Brent's experience from the beginning, the people he has met and the lives he's changed by just being in that place astounds me. It's not about his spotters. It's about his experiences and his feelings, with a hint of history and passion. It's a shame a person that knew nothing about who he is, or how he got there was so disappointed with a product she didn't pay for and decided to leave such a review. Screw it. I'll read it again. (also my preorder stuff came in on time, as promised)

Looby

Book 10/10. Delivery 10/10. Amazon packer 0/10

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on April 8, 2024

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Loved the look of the book. Had a quick flick through and it looks like it will be a brilliant read. Unfortunately, it arrived damaged, so I had to send it back as it’s meant to be a gift. The sticky part of the Amazon packaging was stuck to the dust cover and the book looked like it had been dropped before that and some of the pages looked like they had been sliced by a knife. Have had to order another book to replace this one.

denae

Our family’s favourite book

Reviewed in Canada on April 11, 2024

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We have been waiting on this book to arrive since we knew about the pre order! We received it and now have read it to our two boys who watch ghost town living on YouTube. Even had family over Easter who read it in two days. It’s a book you just can’t put down! Now to read it again!!

Delorkay

So inspired ✨️

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on March 28, 2024

Verified Purchase

From the second I held it I knew I was in for a journey! The quality is so good! I've not been this excited for a book in years and Brent has done a phenomenal job of creating a gripping and informative recount of Cero Gordo! Love love love! Will display proudly on my shelf for decades to come! I've not finished as it only arrived today but cannot wait to get to the end of this book knowing its only just the beginning of what's to come!

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Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

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