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From the Publisher
Honeycrisp
- Category: Firm-sweet.
- Best use: Most people use it only as a dessert apple, but it does keep its shape well when baked. If you like your apples with a satisfying crunch, eat this one fresh.
- Origin: Developed at the University of Minnesota Horticultural Research Center in the 1960s. Interestingly, the patent for this cultivar lists Macoun and Honeygold as its parents, but genetic testing in 2004 proved that claim false. Honeycrisp was released commercially in 1991.
- Availability: The Honeycrisp is widely available at supermarkets and orchards all over the country Because farmers have to pay a licensing fee to grow Honeycrisp, and because it remains so popular, it is generally more expensive than other varieties.
- Season: Ripens mid-September through October; keeps well through the winter.
- Taste: As sweet as its name implies, with just enough acid to keep it from being saccharine. Flavors of honey and pear add complexity.
- Texture: Incredibly crisp and so juicy that it seems nearly effervescent.
Hidden Rose
- Category: Firm-tart.
- Best use: Because it’s so pretty to look at, the Hidden Rose is often eaten fresh, but it does cook well.
- Origin: An Oregon native, the apple first appeared in the 1960s as a chance seedling on land in Airlie. Two decades later, an apple grower named Louis Kimzey found the tree and the Hidden Rose was on its way to being marketed as a red-fleshed novelty.
- Availability: It is most popular in its native Pacific Northwest, but it is grown in locations as diverse as Indiana, Massachusetts, and England.
- Season: It ripens in October and is usually available through early November.
- Taste: Red-fleshed apples tend to have berry flavors, and this one is no exception. The Hidden Rose I’ve tasted vary in flavor intensity, but the best ones taste like strawberry lemonade. They tend to have candy-apple aromas.
- Texture: Fresh apples are crisp and moderately juicy.
Cox’s Orange Pippin
- Category: Tender-sweet.
- Best use: A beloved dessert apple in Britain, the Cox’s Orange has tender flesh that’s fantastic when eaten fresh. Nevertheless, I’ve found many British recipes for puddings and crisps that call specifically for Cox’s Orange Pippin, so feel free to experiment.
- Origin: It originated in 1830, a chance seedling from a Ribston tree that grew at Colnbrook Lawn in Buckinghamshire, and was discovered by Richard Cox.
- Availability: An apple lover’s favorite, this variety has been showing up more and more in farmers’ markets, particularly on the East Coast and the Midwest, where British apples have more of a following, but it is also grown in Northern California.
- Season: In most regions, it ripens between late September and mid-October.
- Taste: Citrusy and almost tropical-tasting, with pear aromas. It has more tartness than some of the apples in this category, but the balance still falls on the side of sweet.
- Texture: Quite juicy, with a nice tenderness.
Cosmic Crisp
- Category: Firm-sweet.
- Best Use: Like Honeycrisp, Cosmic Crisp is priced as a premium apple, so it’s best enjoyed in fresh preparations: on its own, in a salad, or on a cheese platter.
- Origin: Developed by Bruce Barritt, Cosmic Crisp was brought to market in 2019. A cross between Enterprise and Honeycrisp cultivars, Cosmic Crisp is being marketed as having all the appeal of the Honeycrisp, with more disease resistance and reliable productivity.
- Availability: Cosmic Crisp is grown only in Washington State, but it’s widely distributed to supermarkets across the country.
- Season: Mid-October through early November and is released to consumers in early December. It is an incredible keeper, with reports that it maintains its flavor and texture for up to a full year.
- Taste: Cosmic Crisp’s intense sweetness is its primary calling card, but there’s enough acidity to prevent it from becoming cloying.
- Texture: Coarse, crisp, and eminently juicy. Good to chew, breaking off in chunks as you bite in.
Sweet Potato–Apple Latkes
Apple Notes: I like a green, firm-tart apple here. Rhode Island Greening and Granny Smith would both make excellent choices.
Using the coarse side of a box grater or a food processor fitted with a medium grating disk, grate the potatoes, apples and shallots. Toss together in a large bowl. Add the eggs, matzo meal, salt, and pepper and toss to mix well.
Preheat the oven to 200ºF. Pour ¾ inch of oil into a skillet over medium-high heat. When the temperature reaches 370ºF, scoop ¼ cup potato mixture from the bowl, then gently drop that mixture out onto a wide spatula. Press into a patty about ⅓ inch thick, then gently slide the pancake into hot oil. Repeat with three or four pancakes at a time (do not crowd the pan). Cook the first side until the edges are crispy and well browned and the undersides are golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes.
Gently turn and cook until the other sides are golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes longer.
Transfer the pancakes to paper towels to drain briefly, then arrange in a single layer on baking sheets and keep warm in the oven while you cook the remaining pancakes. Serve hot, with sour cream and applesauce.
Makes: 25 to 30 latkes • Active time: 1 hour,10 minutes • Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes
Note: Keep the oil at about 370ºF while frying to prevent latkes from turning greasy. Check the heat with a candy or frying thermometer (most quick-read thermometers don’t go high enough) and adjust accordingly.
make-ahead tip: If making ahead, cool the latkes to room temperature, then freeze in zip-top bags. Re-crisp in a 325ºF oven for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.
Ingredients
- 2 pounds (900 g) Garnet or Jewel sweet potatoes, peeled
- 3 large firm-tart apples (about 1½ pounds total; see Apple Notes), unpeeled, cored, and quartered
- 8 medium shallots (7 ounces or 200 g), peeled
- 6 large eggs, beaten
- 1 cup (130 g) matzo meal
- 1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- Vegetable oil for frying
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Reviews with images
There are maybe 30 pictures in the entire book
This really is a great cookbook but it needs more pictures! Please! I would love to know what a French Apple Tart or an Apple-Cranberry Slab Pie looks like!
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